The Salt Road, Slowly

The route, day by day

1. Day 1Arrive at the quay

   Samphire Quay, 4 km

   A short walk along the harbour wall to see how the boats lean when the tide is out. Supper is at the long table in the net loft.

   Sleep

   Net-loft rooms above the quay

   Eat

   Mussels and samphire

2. Day 2Dune path and a swim

   Dunmere, 10 km

   The first dune day is gentle: soft sand underfoot, marram grass ticking in the wind. There is a long pause at a sheltered cove for anyone who wants to swim.

   Sleep

   Dune guesthouse

   Eat

   Grilled fish, new potatoes

3. Day 3The tidal crossing

   Skerrow, 9 km

   We cross the causeway when the water has left it, with a guide who knows exactly how long that is. On the far side is a village of eleven houses and one very good oven.

   Sleep

   Cottage with a stove

   Eat

   Seeded bread, smoked cheese

4. Day 4Salt pans

   Pale Point, 11 km

   We walk the shallow pans where salt is still raked by hand and learn why the colour changes with the afternoon. The wind drops at five.

   Sleep

   Lighthouse keeper's cottage (fictional)

   Eat

   Salt-baked beetroot, lentils

5. Day 5A day for doing little

   Gullet Bay, 5 km

   A short stroll and a long afternoon. There are tide pools, a bench, a book and a very small shop that sells only postcards.

   Sleep

   Bay guesthouse

   Eat

   Fish stew

6. Day 6Along the marsh

   Rime End, 14 km

   Reed beds, then open mud, then reed beds again. The birds are numerous and not interested in us.

   Sleep

   Boathouse bunkrooms

   Eat

   Eel pie or leek pie

7. Day 7The last landing

   Tern Landing, 11 km

   The final stretch is a causeway of white shells to a landing where a small ferry takes us to the mainland road. We say goodbye with tea on the pier.

   Sleep

   Departure after lunch

   Eat

   Tea and shortbread