The High Pastures Traverse

The route, day by day

1. Day 1Arrive and walk the valley floor

   Tolbeck, 6 km

   We meet at the village bakery in the afternoon and walk the flat track by the stream just to loosen the legs. The first view of the ridge comes at six, when the light turns the grey slopes briefly blue.

   Sleep

   Guesthouse above the bakery

   Eat

   Barley soup and rye bread

2. Day 2Up through the beech wood

   Aldersey Hut, 13 km

   The path climbs steadily through beech that smells of wet coins, and comes out above the treeline at a stone hut with a stove. There is time to sit before supper, and nobody checks a watch.

   Sleep

   Mountain hut, shared rooms of four

   Eat

   Hut stew and pickled pears

3. Day 3The pass in the early morning

   Wren Pass, 15 km

   We leave before breakfast so the pass is ours for an hour. After it the ground opens into pasture, and the cowbells begin to tell you where the herd is.

   Sleep

   Farm loft with a view of the pass

   Eat

   Sheep cheese, flatbread, plum jam

4. Day 4Pasture day with a long lunch

   Marl Fold, 11 km

   A shorter day by design. We stop at a shepherd family's summer kitchen, where lunch takes the time it takes, and in the afternoon we do very little.

   Sleep

   Farm loft

   Eat

   Dumplings with browned butter

5. Day 5Down the other side

   Hosk, 17 km

   The route drops through juniper and loose stone to a village built on a shelf. The wind changes, the air gets warmer and the sound of water returns.

   Sleep

   Village inn

   Eat

   River trout or beans with smoked onion

6. Day 6Last ridge, last coffee

   Brindle Col, 16 km

   One more climb, then a long easy descent to the road where a minibus waits. We end with coffee in a room with a very loud clock.

   Sleep

   Departure after lunch

   Eat

   Coffee and almond biscuits